This week, Michael and I realized that we had surpassed
the half way mark on our adventure. Half way! It seems like a strange time,
though. Walking the Great Wall seems both like yesterday, and forever ago.
There’s just been so many things happen in between that it’s difficult to
measure the time properly. And today we start in on a fresh new adventure.
We’ve stepped into our 5th country – New Zealand – and into a 4 week
long caravan road trip from Christchurch to the southern tip of the country and
all the way up north to Auckland. Michael and I each have goals:
Mine:
Hike a tall glacial mountain
Find some spectacular NZ wool (even though I truly don’t
need any more yarn in my collection)
Michael’s:
Skydiving
Bungee
Ziplining
White Water Rafting
…I’m sure Michael has other goals but when we discuss our
New Zealand needs, it mostly sounds like I’d like to be a granny and Michael
would like to tempts the Gods of Water, Earth and Air.
There will be a happy medium achieved, I think.
Mostly, I’m really extremely looking forward to our
campervan rental. I can’t wait to really set up shop in our traveling “home”
(though it’s really just a glorified minivan), and to hit up a grocery store. I
can’t wait to cook my own supper. After
all this time, making my own supper feels like a luxury!
Can I tell you about Christchurch? We’ve been here
exactly one day, and it is not like anything I’ve ever seen before. After the earthquakes
of 2010 and 2011, Christchurch was leveled. I remembered hearing about it on
the news and seeing some crumbled buildings on tv, but after seeing this city
in the flesh – three years after the earthquake – I certainly underestimated
the magnitude of the disaster. Sure, there seems to be constant construction
work going on; road work and cranes and support beams. But walking around the
downtown core, you’d think you were in a ghost town. “Oh look! A
Starbucks!....oh wait. It’s closed.” Most of the buildings are either so
visibly damaged that of course there wouldn’t be a shop in it anymore, or else
they have enough structural damage that the shopkeeper needed to board up the
windows and leave anyway. Most of the tourist spots in downtown are now centred
around the post-earthquake life. We visited a shopping district called
Re:Start. It’s made up of colourfully painted shipping containers and houses
everything from tourist souvenir shops to cafes (we ate breakfast in an
upstairs window!) and Lululemon. It’s clearly an area that’s vibrant with
locals who want to reclaim their city.We also visited a museum which explained
Christchurch’s experiences with the disaster and their drastic (but slow
moving) plans for rebuilding. We walked past the crumbled Christchurch
Cathedral (amongst others), and found ourselves at a pop-up arts and community
centre called the Pallet Pavillion. Hundreds of blue-painted pallets are
stacked up tall to form walls, and inside you can get a coffee or a beer and
snacks and watch local artists perform, or join an open mic night, or
participate in a local dance troupe’s jig! We left just before an activity
which would have involved about twenty xlyophones…
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Around Christchurch Cathedral |
With so many empty spaces where commercial buildings used
to be, Christchurch is doing a fairly good job at keeping the city “full.” They
insert art pieces or murals. They give restaurant licenses to people who want
to open up a burger joint out of a couple of parked city buses. They construct
temporary performance spaces and keep plenty of the barricades colourful! It’d
be a grey place to live if not for these interesting additions. Though, it does
seem like most people have moved away from downtown. Like I said – for the most
part, it looks like a ghost town. (I’m told there’s a “new downtown” somewhere,
and I assume that’s where most of the shops and restaurants and people have
gone to). I definitely think that this will be an excellent place to revisit in
10 years.
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Our swanky bus-shaped dinner spot |
But I haven’t written anything about Tasmania yet, have
I?!
I’ll put it in another post very soon. I was sadly absent
from the interwebs in Tasi as most of our lodging either didn’t have internet
or wanted to charge us actual money for the use of the WWW. Pfft. Here’s a
teaser:
IT WAS AWESOME.